Heston Blumenthal's historic cookery series on Channel Four took on Roman food this week (filmed, I guess, before the Fat Duck's brush with the norovirus). There was plenty of luxury and sex (almost) on display. The Romans we learned were "theatrical, deviant and orgasmic" -- and Heston set out to recreate their theatrical, deviant and orgasmic food for a group of celebs (below) who had been hired to consume and comment on the finished product.
There was a lot of library work going on in the background, and plenty of pictures of Heston scanning the Loeb edition of Petronius. But the fun came in seeing if he could actually make the dishes.
He did rather well with the Roman staple of garum -- their favourite sauce made out of rotten fish which,
as Heston pointed out, they seem to have smeared over most things. It is this that usually defeats undergraduate Roman dinner parties (anchovy paste doesn't quite get it). But even if Heston didnt have the patience to rot his fish for the three months that the Romans did, he did manage to heat up and blend together a load of mackerel intestines, so that they ended looking rather like a Thai sauce and was (so Heston insisted) really 'delicious'.
The most interesting bit for me was the recreation of the 'Trojan pig'. This is a joking dish described by Petronius in the Satyricon, but known elsewhere in Roman literature. It's a large roast pig stuffed with sausages, so that when the flesh of the pig is slit, what looks like intestines tumble out.
In Petronius, it is a neat joke played on the dinner guests, staged between the host Trimalchio and his cook. The pig is brought in to the banquet, and with it comes the cook -- full of apologies that he has forgotten to gut the animal. Trimalchio feigns anger and orders the cook to strip for a whipping, until the other guests plead for mercy. 'Ok,' says Trimalchio, 'gut it now'. And out come all those sausages . . . and everyone applauds.
Heston had rather more trouble with this one.










Getting a word in edgeways
I was pleased to be one of the guests on the programme recorded last week (it'll soon be available on the website). The others were Carl Djerassi, the inventor of the pill (pictured right) and Harold Varmus, Nobel Laureate in Physiology.
I was down to do the Sixty Second Idea -- for which I proposed that prison be
abolished for all but violent criminals, those who posed a real danger to their fellow human beings. But the main discussion was on reproductive technologies (Djerassi), open access, digital scientific libraries (Varmus) and Roman laughter (me).
So how did this discussion between me and the two science barons go?
Continue reading "Getting a word in edgeways" »
Posted by Mary Beard on March 27, 2009 at 11:16 PM | Permalink | Comments (17)