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Fashion Week wash out

Newsflash; sudden downpour plays havoc with fashionistas' outfits at London Fashion Week. It doesn't matter if you are carrying a Burberry Manor bag, or wearing a Balenciaga coat if your look is going to be let down by an umberella resembling a crumpled bin bag on a stick. Apart from one rather stylish Edwardian style parasol, the assortment of umbrellas here is beyond mediocre. Ladies, you are in drizzly England, land of rain, your umbrella is your most important accessory.

Topshop tops it all

What's been the most coveted item to come out of London Fashion week? A Biba ticket? A front row seat next to Kate Moss? Well, yes, those are good but we are in fact talking of a humble top. Seen on stylists and editors alike, this simple Chloe style white top with delicate black circle detailing at the neck from, yes you've guessed it Topshop, is our buy of the week. Snap it up now before they go.

Bootylicious

Just as we suspected; it is scientifically impossible not to shake your booty to Beyonce. Even the fashion pack, many of whom don't have much ass to shake (cf Rachel Zoe) were giving it their best shot, with all the editors getting out of their seats to boogie when the curvy R'n'B star performed Crazy in Love at last night’s Armani One Night Only Event in Earl’s Court.

One of the few exceptions was Gareth Pugh, who stared quizzically at Beyonce with his arms folded. Perhaps he was imagining her in one of his gimp suits.

Frock and roll

Razorlight add their views to the debate on skinny models; well sort of. At the Armani after-show party last night one of their entourage said that numerous models had been trying to get backstage to fling themselves at the skinny jeans clad band, but they weren’t interested, because ‘models all look like aliens, and they are too skinny.’ Apparently the band prefer curvy girls with a bit of meat on them. Cue champagne fuelled discussion of whether skinny men only like curvy girls, whether Razorlight wear women’s jeans, whether...

Zandra's Back

'It's good to be back' said Zandra Rhodes last night after her first catwalk show in twenty years. With her trademark bright pink hair and exotic coloured make-up (care of M.A.C, who else?) she seemed a little flustered after sending out a small army of clothes onto the catwalk. Still, not too tired to hug New Best Friend Minnie Driver. 'It was a beautiful collection' gushed Driver, 'I like the dress that Erin (O'Connor) wore but I can't quite make it look like Erin, but I'll give it a go.' How sporting. Still the star of the show was not Driver, nor the Stephen Jones Indian feather headress which Erin O'Connot wore at the end, or even why-exactly-am-I-famous? Kimberley Stewart, who was lapping up the attention of the photographers on the front row. Instead it was wash-and-go hair stylist of the century Vidal Sasson, who went for the Marcello Mastroianni look in a black suit and big black framed glasses.

The must-have bag at the shows

Carrying a big bag is a London Fashion Week prerequisite. Darling, where else is one meant to put her tickets, spare pair of heels, notepad, party tickets and free gifts?

In terms of which one to carry, really there are only two to choose from. Attention seekers should choose the Burberry Icon bag. With its shiny hardware, quilting and affliliation with Posh Spice, it will certainly get you noticed. But we at The Times like to take the understated road. And for this, only the Anya Carker will do. Simple, serene and a classic in the making, we think it's the thinking ladies' arm candy. The choice is yours.   

The great shoe debate

Considering the amount of miles showgoers complete on a daily basis, it is somewhat surprising that the two most popular styles on the feet of journalists and buyers alike is the wobbly wedge. A self-declared health hazard, there are only two shoes to be wearing this season.

In the red corner, with its patent upper, slimmed out toe and delicate ankle strap is by Chloe. Coming in at about £300, it's what those in the front row - and the money - have been stomping to their seats in.

Hot on its heels however, is a mighty offering from Aldo. At about 10 cm in depth, this not only gives you more height, but at only £59.99, it leaves a lot more in your wallet. We declare Aldo the winner.

Backstage at Betty Jackson

Only minutes before her Spring/Summer 2007 collection trotted down the catwalk, Betty Jackson was keen to have her say about the week's favourite topic of conversation - skinny models. "Fashion aside, it really upsets me that there are girls out there suffering from anorexia. At Betty Jackson, we are very conscious to use only healthy models, and if we have suspicions that a girl is too thin, we will telephone their agency to discuss it," she said adamantly.  "They are just young, tall, slim, glossy girls - what else do you expect from models?"

Backstage at Gareth Pugh

The atmosphere was hot and sweaty, and I found myself surrounded by semi-naked women and men in leather gimp suits. No this wasn't some S&M dungeon, it was backstage at Gareth Pugh.

With 20 minutes to go before the show, the costumes were still being stitched, gothic make-up is still being applied, and London Fashion Week’s most boundary pushing/radical/freakish designer (you decide) was looking extremely anxious.

Click here to view the Gareth Pugh gallery

Hamnett for everyone

Perhaps the biggest name showing at the Esthetica area is Katherine Hamnett, who has been a staunch campaigner for ethical fashion throughout her career. She has chosen London Fashion Week to launch her first 100 per cent ethical clothing range. And in a fitting, inclusive move, her clothes are going to be stocked in Urban Outfitters from October.

Commenting on the significance of the ethical fashion stands at London Fashion Week she said, "It shows London is moving with the times. There is a huge revolution in buying - you just have to look at the statistics: Marks and Spencers did a survey on consumer demands and 95% of their 15 million customers expressed concern over ethical production, compared with 75% two years ago. It shows consumers are more compassionate and that they are putting their money where their mouth is. They're demanding that workers are fairly treated. People are realising that they have more power as consumers than as voters."

Backstage at John Rocha

Video provided by thelondonpaper.com, who caught up with make-up artist Sam Bryant, backstage at John Rocha

Head space

There's always one wacky accessory of choice at London Fashion Week, and this season it's the hat. The thing is, these are no ordinary hats. Oh no - think swaths of green netting wrapped around the head as seen on the front row at Gareth Pugh (where else?) and come to mention it, the man himself got into the act too with pony tail hair-hats and latex head masks.

But the spot of the week was the Balenciaga riding hat - you know the one we all thought would never be worn out of the gymkana. Well it has, with not a pony in sight. Add to that foot-tall straw bowler hats, feminine baseball caps at Emma Cook and various panamas (I thought the man from Del Monte lived in the Caribbean not London?) and you've got yourself a hat trick.

Hugh Grant, the poor dear

Poor old Hugh. Not only did he have to traipse in behind dear old Jemima last night at the Biba show, but the poor old blighter just couldn't stand the light and was forced to wear sunglasses throughout the show. Whether it was the panoply of colours chosen by Bella Freud for Biba's first collection, or the thought - heaven forbid - of being recognised by the lowly masses surrounding him, Hughie just had to cover up. And what about his appearance at the after-party? A no-show. He probably wanted an early night, there's only so much bright light a man can take in one day.

Get Yer Freak on Giles Deacon

What did Gareth Pugh wear to receive his applause after the show? Not one of his own gimp-suits, but a T-shirt emblazoned with the words, ‘Get Yer Freak on Giles Deacon’. Where did he get it, I hear Deacon fans clamour? It’s by Pugh’s friend Henry Holland, who designs for House of Holland. The two were looking at videos of Gareth on the website YouTube,‘for a laugh,’ (not vanity we would like to make it clear) and they decided to make a T-shirt saying ‘U-HU Gareth Pugh.’ Holland has also made T-shirts featuring other designers, including one saying ‘Give us a tickle Richard Nicoll. The one mentioning Christopher Bailey is unsuitable for a family audience, so we’ll leave to use your imagination. Clue, you might have to think quite hard.

Ethical fashion

Dresses made of plastic bags knotted together and then melted, sequins made from old records in Africa, clothes constructed from scraps left on the floor at Italian fabric companies - it hardly sounds like high fashion does it? But this may be where the future lies. Eco/ethical/fair trade fashion - whatever you want to call it - is big news at London Fashion Week thanks to a whole section in the show tents assigned to ethical clothing - otherwise known as Esteticha.

Great designers and free champagne

Random celebrity alert! Rhys Ifans might not be known as a dedicated follower of fashion, but that didn't stop him pulling up a pew (or rather a folding chair) at the Richard Nicoll show. When all the benches were taken an anxious organiser had to run around trying to find somewhere for the lanky actor to perch. Ifans came to the show because, Richard Nicoll "is a good mate, and a great designer. Oh and there's free champagne." He added that the second two reasons were the most important. And who are Ifans' favourite womenswear designers? "Balenciaga and Lanvin. My girlfriend runs a label called Le Chiffon, and she's introducing me to fashion, slowly." With favourites like that he may soon be able to tell Marni from Matalan.

Life after wedges

Anyone lamenting the demise of the kitten heel (yes we know they were easy to wear, we know you could wear them to the office) shouldn't expect them to make a comeback any time soon. Paul Smith sent his models out in chunky clogs, and without wanting to be the bearer of bad news, they look set to be the logical successor to the wedge, the platform and the stack heel, despite being reminiscent of a 16th century cheesemaker. The clumpy shoe looks set to run and run (even if its wearers can't.)

Fashion muscle

Who are the best-dressed people at London Fashion Week? The models, the journalists or the designers? Answer: none of the above. It is in fact the security guards.

So take comfort in the fact that if you are wrestled out of the show tents for a) not sporting the latest designer garb b) wearing your leggings one milimetere below the pre-ordained stylish length or c) never having heard of Ben de Lisi, it will be by some of the best -dressed bouncers on the planet.

'The 40-strong security team will be dressed head to toe by George At Asda; sophisticated and stylish in dark suits and slim wool coats'. Who needs Giorgio Armani when you've got George?

Backstage with Sir Paul Smith

British design stalwart Sir Paul Smith has entered the debate on skinny models, after Madrid fashion week announced last week that they were banning skinny models in order to develop a more healthy image for the event. Speaking backstage this morning while preparing for his catwalk show, he said, "We are given the tools with which to work with just two or three days before the show, if different shapes were available you would select them. When I started out, girls were one size bigger than they are today. Skinnier models are not a request from people like me."

Surrounded by models – who noticeably steered clear of the stack of croissants on offer – Smith joked, "I think it's so funny that on the one hand you have Jamie Oliver in a fat suit highlighting obesity and on the other you have the debate over skinny models."

Smith also acknowledged the changing trend in model sizes. "When I went to the couture shows in my twenties, the girls were a bit bigger. They were full-bodied and more 'handsome'. Today models have more boyish figures. What I think will happen is that in a year's time you will see girls getting slightly bigger."

Smith's catwalk show – dominated by his Men Only collection - accentuated these boyish figures and androgynous trends. "Girls have been buying menswear for ages now. When Grace Coddington and Bruce Weber worked on British Vogue I think we had a Paul Smith men's white shirt in every edition. Boys' raincoats, white shirts and baggy jumpers have always looked good on girls. Loafers, brogues, satin stonewashed clogs are all popular and feature in my collection." And what about crocs, Sir Paul? "An acquired taste." Enough said.

Julien Macdonald and Rachel Zoe

What was the one crucial question on everyone's lips last night as Rachel Zoe and Julien Macdonald held court at the Sanderson? Just which of the two was wearing the most make-up. (I'll give you a clue, his name's not Rachel).

So why is Zoe in town, and more importantly, who's dressing Nicole Ritchie in her absence? It seems she's here to exert her big sunglasses–big glamour influence on Macdonald by styling his catwalk show this Friday (not that he really needs it; do you remember Paris Hilton as his bride last season?) and what better way for her to start than by wearing one of his dresses from the forthcoming collection.

Struggling a little with her floor-length dress – gaps in decking do not a graceful entrance make – Zoe was all in favour of London fashion, "I love the way the British dress – it's a bit more, like, street with layers, structure. It's sharp and edgy with a more tomboy effect." And her tips for this season's trends? "It's all about the coat. I like to replace black with white." Good luck on the Tube, Rachel. 

Caught in the act

Tara Palmer-Tomkinson clad in orange hotpants brazenly powdering her nose outside the Gharanistrok show. But before the Priory starts calling her mobile, the powder in question was only bronzer.

The Kate effect

The speed of Kate Moss copying effect has reached lighting pace. Sunday she shows up at the Topshop show all highwaisted Chloe jeans, grey longsleeved t-shirt and perfectly ruffled bed hair. Monday morning, at least one fashion journalist has been spotted in an identical outfit. And the beat goes on...

Top looks at Topshop

What to wear to the Topshop Unique show, the first show of fashion week?

Topshop of course. While it might be frowned upon to match your clothes to the designer at most shows, the fashion pack were wearing their support for the high street chain on their sleeves, literally. The show was preceded by Bellinis and canapés (including some very tasty mini scones with jam and cream) in the rather elegant grounds of Holland Park Theatre, and felt more like a wedding party (albeit one with some very on-trend guests) than pre-show drinks.