Yes, this really is Burberry Prorsum

Christopher Bailey’s obsession with English aristos is well on the wane. His style is moving from one based on nostalgia to a far more experimental stance. It was clear from the start that Bailey is in the mood to challenge convention. He took the ultimate Burberry icon, the trench and made it in hunting pink wool jersey, cut slim on the body, sharp on the shoulder and cinched with a nylon strap at the waist. He laced the collection with surfer references, using neoprene for tailored jackets and coats; he even trimmed his shoes with it. Other unconventional ideas included sequin T-shirts in angry yellow or bright blue, under suiting. Some pieced did stand out as trying far too hard to be different (the gold admiralty themed lurex knits at the end looked like Michael Jackson costumes) but Bailey is taking Burberry into new territory. Gone is the polite deference to the heritage of the brand and the gentle, nostalgic idea of simply putting a contemporary spin on old favourites. Bailey is new era of post-deference. It could be an interesting place - Claudia Croft