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The Giles/Pop party

Crazy new rave kids ran forth last night at Spring Studios at a party hosted by Giles and Pop magazine. Here's what they were wearing (and what you'll be wearing next year):

1) Man with a lightning stripe down his face
2) Woman dressed as a techno geisha
3) Man in a tutu
4) Purple haired drag queen Jodie Harsh
5) Giles Deacon looking as if he was off to a baseball game in a baseball jacket
6) Taking a brave last stand against neon, the ever-elegant PRs from L.K. Bennett

The party started out like a school disco with the neon-clad club kids at one end of the room and the groomed fashionistas at the other but once the sounds of Blondie kicked in, everyone came together as one big happy fashion family.

Backstage at Biba

Charlotte Tilbury, who created the make up for Biba, gave me her guide to creating 1960s smoky-eyes make up.

1."I don’t like heavy foundation so I always start with a light base such as Mac’s Face and Body foundation. Then I conceal any flaws with Estee Lauder Maximum Cover foundation used as concealer."

2."I curl the eyelashes, apply a straight line with a kick at the outer corners using black gel eyeliner by Mac, then blend a chocolate brown shadow such as Cola by Chantecaille across the lid and up to the socket, blending it back and forth so there are no hard edges. Then I apply another shadow in the eye socket- either darker brown, or brown and black mixed together for a really dramatic look."

3. "I line the lips with a nude liner such as Mac Spice, then fill them in a pale nude lipstick such as Helena Rubenstein’s Nude Envy."

4. "Sculpt the cheeks using a bronzer such as Hula by Benefit."

Kelly O: Party Princess

Nothing is more pleasing than a non-stop party girl and the princess of the parties right now is Miss Kelly Osbourne. Always rocking a full on, co-ordinated look with sky high heels and dramatic make-up, Kelly matches her outfits with wild dancing and an entourage of fun, good looking friends. This week she’s already been spotted tearing up the McQ party at Boombox on Sunday, sporting a forties inspired look and enjoying a night of fun with pal Amy Winehouse at the Elle Style Awards on Monday and she’ll continue her reign as number one party girl tonight at the Brits. We can’t wait to see the photos! Al Mulhall

Trendwatch round-up

The 'stache is back

Spotted in the audience this week

• Bright red lipstick (with pale skin)
• Spindly moustaches (on men just in case you were wondering)
• Rayban wayfarers
• Rapidly descending heel heights - the UGG boots and the ballet flats are creeping up on the wedges as the pressure takes its toll on day 4

Julien Madonald (OBE)

Last night the most tanned man in fashion (OBE) took to the stage with a show that promised sequins, crystals, and fur and delivered them in truckloads. But the one thing on Julien Macdonald's (OBE) mind last night when I caught him back stage was not the glittering front row (Margot Stilley on appearance no. 97) nor the prospect of Naomi Campbell's midnight e.t.a. Much more importantly, this was the first outing of his favourite EVER accessory - his own OBE medal. Because if you haven't heard, Julien (OBE) has been appointed OBE. And what is Julien's (OBE) fashion ethos? Fun, glitz and glamour - in an unabashed form 'they'll all be dancing to the Julien Macdonald (OBE) beats', he promised (helped by the GAY soundtrack). And finally, when asked which woman he (OBE) would most like to dress, what do you think was his (OBE) reply? ' Well this woman isn't with us any more unfortuantely, but I would have loved to dress Marilyn Monroe'. I wish he'd said the queen. 

Trend spot: shiny, long hair

At PPQ and Alice McCall, models were sent down the runways with flowing, bouncy, natural - looking locks that screamed , er,  fresh-faced Swedish au pair. It's the perfect faux naïf  compliment for the dresses-and-opaques combo set to reign supreme for another season. The bad news is that it takes a team of 6 hairstylists and a mountain of hair extensions to get it. So much for ‘au naturel’. -- Gemma Soames

The Cheap Date party

It was so bleak outdoors last night, it was tempting to skip fashion week frolics and go home to bed. Luckily Louis Vuitton had laid on a cosy dinner honouring Bay Garnett and Kira Jolliffe, the editors of underground fashion 'zine Cheap Date, at Drones Club in Mayfair. The dinner was to celebrate the launch of the book, The Cheap Date Guide to Style, out March 1st. Bay and Kira are famous for their parties and this was a very jolly affair. The Cheap Date posse - among them, Sophie Dahl, Lily Cole, Jasmine Guinness, Bryan Adams, Erin O'Connor, Laura Bailey - looked trés glam in proper jewellery and the posh end of vintagewear (auction-bought Ozzie, darling, no 1960s Bri-nylon trews tonight, please). It was Dom Perignon on tap almost all evening and everyone chatted like they'd known each other for years (a lot had). Dancing? Not on tables - Drones is far too grown-up for that - but in between them. Thandie Newton turned up late, post-Elle Style Awards, looking like a knockout as usual. That skin! Can someone please explain it?   

Trend spot: very tall girls wearing very high, very expensive heels. They just go up and up. 

Little big hair

Last season the big/small debate centred around handbags: either, you risked a lifetime of osteopathy by carrying a bag large enough for the kitchen sink and dinning room table, or you kept it small and beautiful with a microscopic clutch. This season, the same rule applies, but this time to hair. Naomi Campbell, Natalie Umbruglia and Natalia Vodinova are all parading tightly cropped pixie dos of the Twiggy variety. If you aren’t ready for the chop, go Big. Amy Winehouse (above) turned up to Monday night’s Elle Style Awards with a beehive that was equal in size to the rest of the body and Eva Green collected her BAFTA for Best Supporting Actress with a mass of backcombing rivalled only by the Supremes. The choice is yours.

Nails at Manish Arora

Bored of your black nails? But too grumpy for colour? Andrea Fulerton, British nail technician of the Year 2005 and 2006, created these nails for the Manish Arora show - holographic silver crescents on
top of black nails.

Trendwatch: The Gareth Pugh look

Gareth Pugh's influence seems to be finally filtering down to the masses. His creations - more akin to fetishwear than fashion - have yet to be seen off the catwalk but last night we spotted two women at the launch of the Face of Fashion exhibition wearing items that he would have been proud of. One was in black rubber leggings and the other in thigh high leather boots. Could this spell the end of the now ubiquitous - and wholly unflattering - smock dress?

Make mine a black a tan

London Fashion Week is a notorious rush around London: with venues dotted across what feels like every postcode within the M25, teetering around in high heels is a definite no-no. Especially in this rain, which is why this season's footwear of choice is the humble brogue. Flat and comfortable, it has been spotted on several fashionable feet including the entire PR department at Topshop.  Favourite colours so far are worn in tan and black patent. Worn predominantly with socks and cropped tights, it might not sound glamourous, but at least they aren't Uggs.

Trendwatch: Turbans?

Good god, if there was one accessory we thought we'd never ever see on the streets it was the turban. But how could we ever doubt those steely fashionistas? Have they ever shirked an outlandish trend before? Er, no. And so, on day numero uno of fashion week, who did I spy from the corner of my eye but Hilda Ogden. Well, almost - her headwear at least, in hat and hairband form. The thing is, ultimately it left me with the bitter taste of disappointment: girls, where were your rollers?

Gap Individuals Exhibition

If all the fivolity of fashion week leaves you a bit cold, then join the ethical fashion bandwagon with Gap. To run alongside the Face of Fashion exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery they have produced a limited edition T-Shirt, on sale in the NPG shop and the Gap Flagship store in London, in which 100% of the profits will be divided between Gap (PRODUCT) REd and the NPG. The T-Shirts come in Grey and Red, are unisex and come in XXSmall - XLarge.

The best bags?

Monday morning of London Fashion Week and the handbag war is already hotting up. Chanel's shiny Cabas bag (complete with enormous dangling logo) took an early lead with two spotted before 9am.  But Anya Hindmarch's Elrod bag (above) - an ode to Sixties futurism - is being carried by at least two more arms, making it an early contender for Bag of the Week.

She sells silver shoes by the sea shore

It's bad luck that all the editors, writers, buyers and fashion followers are stuck under the tents right now as the day’s shows begin to unfold, because the most coveted shoe of the season—the Luella Bartley winklepicker — just went on pre-sale today at Underground England. The shoes which originated in the '50s get their odd name from a tenuous visual resemblance to a tool used to pick out the insides of periwinkles (basically, both shoe and mollusk-picker are pointy.) The silver, creased and distressed shoe first graced Luella’s runways last season at fashion week where the metallic laced flats in combination with models sporting braces and shirts emblazoned with the word “geek” jarred audiences initially. Then, Vogue featured the shoe as their must have of the new year. Subsequently, everyone (like the two guys below) seems to be channeling Jarvis Cocker here; nerd looks are everywhere this season, and the 200 limited-edition shoes will go quick.

Best-dressed bloke

Best-Dressed Bloke: How can you not love this sweet French fellow, a style blogger for Facehunter. So much so, I can forgive him the fact that he doesn't have lenses in his glasses and is wearing them for effect only. - Sarah

Seen at the shows: fur hats

It’s been a bad week for critters of the soft and fluffy variety, as those poor mites have given up the ghost to become the most ubiquitous accessory at the shows: The gigantic poofy fur hat. Made of fox, mink, raccoon and any other cute woodland creature they could get their hands on, these chapeaux are turning up on the heads of celeb stylist Alexander Allen (above, who counts ‘Lil Kim as a client) who somehow managed to make the pouf look badass, and even the Times’ colleague Hilary Alexander of the Telegraph. - Sarah

 

Fashion victim No. 1: seeing spots

Not everyone under the tents is a style maven. Keep checking this space for fashion’s unfortunates. First up: A fashion victim so afflicted he contracted spots.

Fashion Week wash out

Newsflash; sudden downpour plays havoc with fashionistas' outfits at London Fashion Week. It doesn't matter if you are carrying a Burberry Manor bag, or wearing a Balenciaga coat if your look is going to be let down by an umberella resembling a crumpled bin bag on a stick. Apart from one rather stylish Edwardian style parasol, the assortment of umbrellas here is beyond mediocre. Ladies, you are in drizzly England, land of rain, your umbrella is your most important accessory.

Topshop tops it all

What's been the most coveted item to come out of London Fashion week? A Biba ticket? A front row seat next to Kate Moss? Well, yes, those are good but we are in fact talking of a humble top. Seen on stylists and editors alike, this simple Chloe style white top with delicate black circle detailing at the neck from, yes you've guessed it Topshop, is our buy of the week. Snap it up now before they go.

The must-have bag at the shows

Carrying a big bag is a London Fashion Week prerequisite. Darling, where else is one meant to put her tickets, spare pair of heels, notepad, party tickets and free gifts?

In terms of which one to carry, really there are only two to choose from. Attention seekers should choose the Burberry Icon bag. With its shiny hardware, quilting and affliliation with Posh Spice, it will certainly get you noticed. But we at The Times like to take the understated road. And for this, only the Anya Carker will do. Simple, serene and a classic in the making, we think it's the thinking ladies' arm candy. The choice is yours.   

The great shoe debate

Considering the amount of miles showgoers complete on a daily basis, it is somewhat surprising that the two most popular styles on the feet of journalists and buyers alike is the wobbly wedge. A self-declared health hazard, there are only two shoes to be wearing this season.

In the red corner, with its patent upper, slimmed out toe and delicate ankle strap is by Chloe. Coming in at about £300, it's what those in the front row - and the money - have been stomping to their seats in.

Hot on its heels however, is a mighty offering from Aldo. At about 10 cm in depth, this not only gives you more height, but at only £59.99, it leaves a lot more in your wallet. We declare Aldo the winner.

Backstage at John Rocha

Video provided by thelondonpaper.com, who caught up with make-up artist Sam Bryant, backstage at John Rocha

Head space

There's always one wacky accessory of choice at London Fashion Week, and this season it's the hat. The thing is, these are no ordinary hats. Oh no - think swaths of green netting wrapped around the head as seen on the front row at Gareth Pugh (where else?) and come to mention it, the man himself got into the act too with pony tail hair-hats and latex head masks.

But the spot of the week was the Balenciaga riding hat - you know the one we all thought would never be worn out of the gymkana. Well it has, with not a pony in sight. Add to that foot-tall straw bowler hats, feminine baseball caps at Emma Cook and various panamas (I thought the man from Del Monte lived in the Caribbean not London?) and you've got yourself a hat trick.

Get Yer Freak on Giles Deacon

What did Gareth Pugh wear to receive his applause after the show? Not one of his own gimp-suits, but a T-shirt emblazoned with the words, ‘Get Yer Freak on Giles Deacon’. Where did he get it, I hear Deacon fans clamour? It’s by Pugh’s friend Henry Holland, who designs for House of Holland. The two were looking at videos of Gareth on the website YouTube,‘for a laugh,’ (not vanity we would like to make it clear) and they decided to make a T-shirt saying ‘U-HU Gareth Pugh.’ Holland has also made T-shirts featuring other designers, including one saying ‘Give us a tickle Richard Nicoll. The one mentioning Christopher Bailey is unsuitable for a family audience, so we’ll leave to use your imagination. Clue, you might have to think quite hard.

Ethical fashion

Dresses made of plastic bags knotted together and then melted, sequins made from old records in Africa, clothes constructed from scraps left on the floor at Italian fabric companies - it hardly sounds like high fashion does it? But this may be where the future lies. Eco/ethical/fair trade fashion - whatever you want to call it - is big news at London Fashion Week thanks to a whole section in the show tents assigned to ethical clothing - otherwise known as Esteticha.

Fashion muscle

Who are the best-dressed people at London Fashion Week? The models, the journalists or the designers? Answer: none of the above. It is in fact the security guards.

So take comfort in the fact that if you are wrestled out of the show tents for a) not sporting the latest designer garb b) wearing your leggings one milimetere below the pre-ordained stylish length or c) never having heard of Ben de Lisi, it will be by some of the best -dressed bouncers on the planet.

'The 40-strong security team will be dressed head to toe by George At Asda; sophisticated and stylish in dark suits and slim wool coats'. Who needs Giorgio Armani when you've got George?

Top looks at Topshop

What to wear to the Topshop Unique show, the first show of fashion week?

Topshop of course. While it might be frowned upon to match your clothes to the designer at most shows, the fashion pack were wearing their support for the high street chain on their sleeves, literally. The show was preceded by Bellinis and canapés (including some very tasty mini scones with jam and cream) in the rather elegant grounds of Holland Park Theatre, and felt more like a wedding party (albeit one with some very on-trend guests) than pre-show drinks.

Browns Fashion Week Windows

What’s the next best thing to a humongous splurge in the shops? Window shopping. You can look, you can admire, you can salivate – but girl, you can’t touch. But can you resist the temptation of the beautiful men on show at Browns on South Molton street this week? Fashion Week Windows is running for four weeks to coincide with the fashion shows, and sees the fashion world’s finest male designers working their magic behind the scenes – or rather glass. Including cheeky portrait shots of Alexander McQueen, YSL’s Stefano Pilati and the svelte figure of Dior’s Hedi Slimane, plus Oscar de la Renta’s fairytale dress at Browns Bride. It’s enough to detract from all the goodies inside.