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Iraqi soldiers are standing proud in Basra one month after launching a surprise offensive to wipe out murderous gangs of Shia militants that had been allowed to flourish under Britain’s watch. Many of them say the operation has boosted their confidence, but the militiamen warn that the only reason the fledgling Iraqi army had any success was because they continue to observe a ceasefire order by the radical cleric Moqtada al-Sadr.
Soldier Hassan Sha’an said the past four weeks has tested the training he received from British forces in conducting raids and pulling security for an important person. The 25-year-old is part of team charged with guarding the Iraqi commander of forces in Basra, Lieutenant-General Mohan al-Furaiji. “When we conducted raids I remembered what we had been taught about covering our backs and looking out for our colleagues,” Mr Sha’an said. “After the achievements of the Charge of the Knights operation I feel as a soldier more confident to go on raids and patrols or search for people.” Nouri al-Maliki, the Prime Minister, launched the Basra offensive on March 25 after alerting US and British commanders at the last minute. The original plan that Lt-Gen Furaiji had drawn up anticipated the campaign to start in mid-July. Encouragingly, the first wave of attacks caught the militants off-guard, but two days later they launched a counter offensive, prompting at least one entire Iraqi Army battalion of 1,400 men to flee. Threats by Mr Maliki to disarm rang hollow and the mission appeared to be on the brink of failure before thousands of Iraqi re-enforcements backed by hundreds of American and British soldiers joined the fight at the start of April. “They [the militiamen] collapsed,” said Lt-Gen Furaiji, claiming that the gunmen were a fraction of the 12,000-strong force that some had anticipated.
Rogue elements of the al-Mehdi Army militia, loyal to Moqtada al-Sadr, are accused of being behind much of the violence and intimidation in Basra, where the population was forced to follow a set of strict religious codes or be punished. The Iraqi commander said: “Those who fought are from special groups who received training in Iran.” But the Basra leader of the Sadr movement, the cleric's political wing said the Government had launched a witch hunt for anyone linked to the Sadrists to ensure rival political parties and their militias gain power in Iraq’s second city.
Continue reading "Iraqi forces see victory in Basra" »
The sandstorm swept in without warning overnight, covering everything in its wake in fine particles of dust. By morning Baghdad was cocooned inside a yellow haze of dirt. Visibility shrank to a few meters, erasing almost all trace of the Tigris River that slices through the capital.
Many people wrapped a scarf over their mouth and nose for protection and sheltered their eyes behind a pair of goggles or shades before venturing outside. Some even purchased the sort of white face mask a dentist would wear to help them breathe, while anyone with asthma stayed at home. Every year at about this time sandstorms engulf Iraq like a dirty blanket of fog that clogs the air and leaves behind a thin layer of filth. Majid Kamal, a traffic policeman, who spends his day zipping around Baghdad on a motorbike, was aghast when he awoke last Thursday to discover that the outside world had been transformed into a dust cloud. “This sand gives me a headache,” the 35-year-old said. “I tried to get the day off but my boss refused because he feared the bad conditions would cause more road accidents.” After several hours spent driving around breathing in the dirt, however, Mr Kamal’s chest and eyes were so sore that he was allowed to knock off early. Like many Iraqis, the dust reminds the traffic policeman of the start of the invasion five years ago, which was also blighted by a huge sandstorm. “At that time, I was made to stand outside 24-hours-a-day,” Mr Kamal said, noting that Saddam Hussein had ordered all his security forces to work. Latifah Hussein, 43, views sandstorms as a bad omen. “This is a sign from God. It is not a good sign for the poor people,” said the housewife, dressed in a long, black robe as she popped outside her Baghdad apartment to pick-up some medication from a local pharmacy.
Continue reading "Sandstorm hits Baghdad" »
On my first trip to Iraq four years ago my driver told me off for trying to put on a seatbelt when I sat in the car because such a move – aside from the blonde hair and blue eyes – would clearly mark me out as a foreigner and a potential target. “Iraqis don’t wear seatbelts,” he said, though I subsequently wondered whether it would be better to run the risk of attracting unwanted attention rather than endure the daily hazard of racing through the streets of Baghdad without a safety harness. Over the past fortnight, however, a transformation has taken place. Iraqi drivers are (albeit in many cases reluctantly and/or in bemusement) wearing seatbelts for the first time following a Government order. Many see the new rule as a bit of a joke given that the authorities have yet to stop the far more serious crimes of car bombings and kidnappings, but others welcome the move as a tiny glimmer of order in their otherwise chaotic lives. Keen to write a story about seatbelts (http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/iraq/article3761059.ece), I headed off around Baghdad in the back of a taxi to see if people were belting up. Incredibly, to a greater extent, they were, largely because no one wants to be stung by the 30,000 dinar (13 pound) fine.
My taxi driver, who is still getting used to the sensation of wearing a seatbelt, is pleased that Iraq’s traffic laws are catching up with the rest of the world’s, but he just doesn’t place car accidents very high-up on his list of concerns. “I don’t have safety in my own house and garden so why should I worry about safety in my car?” Mohammed Farid said. The 29-year-old knows only too well the perils of living in Iraq. Four years ago he was injured in the leg by a bomb blast when out driving. A couple of months later, criminals stole his car. Mr Farid also noted that the countless checkpoints, road blocks and blast walls across Baghdad prevent anyone from driving fast enough to hurt themselves if they were to crash. “I only wear this strap to avoid paying a fine,” he said. The law is imposed to a lesser extent on the roads leading to the capital, with some drivers saying that they belt up only when they approach Baghdad. However in the southern city of Basra and the northern city of Mosul traffic police are also out in force. Ehssan Jabor, a taxi driver in Basra, is fuming at having to wear a seatbelt. “I can't drive in this hot weather wearing this stupid rope around my body like I am under arrest,” the 45-year-old said. “The authorities have to find real solutions to our real problems such as the [lack of] power, jobs and water instead of bothering poor drivers with these silly laws.” Mohammad Ali, a 33-year-old car dealer, disagrees, saying: “If they want to start by imposing the law on small matters, then that is great. I agree with anything that will help the city become safe again.” Up in Mosul, opinions are similarly divided.
Continue reading "Iraqis belt-up in road safety drive" »
Standing by a blown up bridge with Blackhawk helicopters buzzing overhead, the American soldier casts his fishing line into the lake surrounding a former palace of Saddam Hussein just outside Baghdad and waits for something to bite. Warrant Officer Leslie “Scott” Henry is part of a unique group of fishermen and women that meets every Sunday and on odd days of the week to take a break from the toils of war with their rod and an array of bait. “It’s a chance to relax and get away from everything else that’s going on out here,” said the 45-year-old, who deals with aviation safety for US military aircraft in Iraq when he is not trying to hook an asp or a bass. “You’ve got to stay ahead of the fish. You’ve got to be innovative,” Warrant Officer Henry told The Times as he tried out a new form of bait – strips of scrunched up bacon from the canteen, stuffed with cream cheese. Situated on a sprawling military base next to Baghdad airport, the al-Faw Palace is one of several grand, marble buildings ringed by man-made lakes that have been occupied by American troops since the invasion five years ago. Hundreds, possibly thousands, of fish live in these expanses of water, inspiring several soldiers to drop their guns and pick up a rod. They formed the Baghdad Angler’s Club and School of Fly Fishing, which has its own Web site – www.baghdadflyfishing.com – displaying shots of men and at least one woman posing with fish of various sizes and shapes. Last February, the group even helped to organise a tournament, dubbed Operation: Catch Fish, which attracted some 300 anglers. Chief Warrant Officer Bobby Carter grabbed top honours, reeling in a 14-pound carp. "It's a great feeling," the amateur fisherman, who had competed in smaller contests back in the United States, said at the time. "I can't win one back home, but now I can say I came to Iraq and won a fishing tournament."
Iraq is renowned for freshwater fishing. For centuries Iraqis have cast their lines into the Tigris and Euphrates rivers that wind through the country, snaring huge fish such as carp that are barbequed into the traditional meal of masgouf. Carp is the most numerous kind of fish inhabiting the lakes at Camp Victory but Warrant Officer Henry prefers going after game fish such as asp or bass. “Carp eat off the bottom. They are garbage fish,” he said. “It’s easier to catch carp.” The angler’s club has about 100 rods that it lends to anyone on the camp who fancies trying their hand at fishing, even visiting journalists. Intrigued, I and fellow reporter Peter Graff decided to venture to Camp Victory on Sunday to join in the fun with Warrant Officer Henry and one of his colleagues. My only past angling experience had been opening the fridge door at home as a teenager in Camberley to find a tub of writhing maggots courtesy of my two, fish-mad brothers so I was slightly nervous at the prospect of having a go for real.
Continue reading "Fishing in Saddam Hussein's lake" »
 Deborah Haynes is the Baghdad Correspondent for The Times. She first reported on Iraq in 2004, covering the deteriorating security situation and the evolving political process. James Hider will also be contributing to this blog More Iraq news and comment is available on Times Online.
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