MARC JACOBS: MUSIC TO THE EARS

After enduring a critical mauling for starting his last New York show two hours late, Marc Jacobs was determined to have the last laugh. His show was due to start at 7p so at 7.10 sharp the designer emerged onto the catwalk and personally urged the crowd who included Kevin Federline and  star of his current ad campaign Victoria Beckham to take their seats as he wanted to start the show. Five minutes later the first model hit the catwalk.  Never in his entire career has a Marc Jacobs show been so prompt and many fashion insiders, accustomed to his usually extreme tardiness, arrived after the show had started and were denied entry.  A fuming Rachel Zoe, the celebrity stylist was one of those left outside. What she missed was a “moment” – although it was more of a musical one than a fashion one. The models walked the runway to the sounds of Kim Gordon and Sonic Youth thrashing and twirling and bashing their way thorough a riotous live set. In contrast, the clothes were serene and elegant. The soft, elongated silhouettes came in pale neutrals – a refreshing look for winter. And if last season’s collection expressed Jacobs appreciation for Comme des Garcons, then this one brought to mind some of Yohji Yamamoto’s more graceful creations. CLAUDIA CROFT